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The Unlikely Muse Who Became an Unforgettable Painting
A glorious portrait of a withered rose
She is dressed to catch the eye.
Her tightly laced bodice pushes her chest upwards, and on her head she wears an ornate double-horned headdress, known as an escoffion — the height of fashion in the the Late Middle Ages.
Perhaps you wouldn’t guess it at first, but this woman has a subtle glint of love in her eyes.
This is one of the most extraordinary paintings in the history of art. Popularly known as The Ugly Duchess, the image shows an ageing woman gazing out in a three-quarter profile.
I remember seeing it in London some years ago and finding it such an unusual and surprising art object. I couldn’t help but be impressed by the technical excellence of the piece, even though it seemed at odds with the subject it depicted.
When so much of art history is focused on representing forms of conventional beauty, how do we read an image like this?
A form of beauty
She bears a tiny smile, as hairs spout from the wart on her cheek. The puckered flesh of her chest echoes the wrinkles in her neck.
As you look at the image more, you become conscious not only of her misshapen features — her large ears, heavy brow and exaggerated upper lip — but also of her rather hopeful countenance.
With her chin lifted and eyes wide, there is undoubtedly a spark of optimism in her gaze.
The first clue to the painting’s meaning is in her right hand: she offers a rosebud, connoting passionate love and also a symbol of engagement. In other words, she is looking for a lover.
Yet the rosebud is tightly closed in on itself, indicating that her attempts to attract a suitor will sadly come to nothing.
